February 15, 2024 - HBI

Hanesbrands: The Silent Share Shift - Is Private Label Underwear Dead?

The recent Hanesbrands Q1 2024 earnings call [Source: HBI Q1 2024 Earnings Call Transcript] offered a glimpse into the resilience of a company navigating a turbulent apparel market. While the headlines focused on a challenging consumer environment and the ongoing strategic review of the Champion brand, a more subtle, yet potentially seismic shift was revealed in Steve Bratspies' comments: the decline of private label underwear.

This seemingly innocuous statement could signal a significant realignment within the innerwear market, with implications reaching far beyond Hanesbrands itself. For years, private label brands have chipped away at the market share of established players like Hanes, leveraging their lower price points to appeal to value-conscious consumers. But according to Bratspies, the tide is turning.

"The other thing that I think is really important," he noted during the call, "is private label is not playing the role that it had been in the past. And actually, private label is losing share in the innerwear market right now." This observation, made almost in passing, carries substantial weight, especially given the backdrop of a struggling innerwear market.

Hanesbrands itself reported an 8% decline in U.S. innerwear sales for Q1 2024. This downturn, attributed partly to a cautious retail environment and inventory management actions, reflects broader industry trends. Competitors have also highlighted challenges within the underwear category, painting a picture of a sector grappling with softened consumer demand.

However, amidst this widespread struggle, Hanesbrands has managed to achieve a remarkable feat: consistent market share gains. In Q1, the company secured an additional 50 basis points of market share across both men's and women's innerwear in the U.S. This builds upon the steady share gains observed throughout 2023, solidifying Hanesbrands' position as a market leader.

The company attributes this success to its multifaceted "Reignite Innerwear" strategy, focusing on consumer-centric innovation, increased brand marketing investments, and a focus on attracting younger consumers. The launch of Hanes Originals, the largest innovation launch in the company's history, has proven instrumental in driving these gains, securing incremental retail space and attracting new customers.

But the decline of private label presents an additional, and potentially more significant growth lever for Hanesbrands. If private label is indeed losing its appeal, a considerable opportunity opens up for established brands like Hanes to reclaim lost ground. This becomes particularly relevant in a challenging economic climate where consumers, while still seeking value, are also increasingly discerning about quality and brand recognition.

The implications of a private label decline extend beyond market share dynamics. It could potentially impact pricing strategies within the innerwear market. As competition from low-priced private labels diminishes, established brands may find greater flexibility to optimize pricing, potentially boosting margins in the long run.

Hanesbrands' confidence in its profit outlook for 2024, with projected gross margins of 38.5% despite ongoing sales challenges, speaks to the underlying strength of its operations and cost management efforts. But the potential shift in the private label landscape could add further fuel to this growth engine, accelerating earnings growth and enhancing shareholder value in the years to come.

It's too early to declare private label underwear dead. However, the trend highlighted by Hanesbrands is worth watching closely. If it persists, it could reshape the dynamics of the innerwear market, rewarding companies that have invested in brand strength, innovation, and a deep understanding of evolving consumer preferences.

Hypothesis:

If the decline of private label underwear is a sustained trend, Hanesbrands could potentially see a revenue increase in the U.S. innerwear market exceeding its projected growth of two times the category rate. This is based on the assumption that a portion of the market share lost to private labels could be recaptured by established brands like Hanes.

Analysis:

Let's examine the provided data points to understand the potential for Hanesbrands' growth:

Hanesbrands U.S. Innerwear sales growth: Approximately 2% CAGR over the past four years [Source: HBI Q1 2024 Earnings Call Transcript].

U.S. innerwear market decline: 5% in Q4 2023 [Source: HBI Q1 2024 Earnings Call Transcript].

Hanesbrands U.S. innerwear market share gain: 50 basis points in Q1 2024 [Source: HBI Q1 2024 Earnings Call Transcript].

Projected U.S. innerwear market growth: 1% plus (historical levels) [Source: HBI Q1 2024 Earnings Call Transcript].

Considering these figures and the trend of private label decline, it becomes evident that Hanesbrands could potentially exceed its historical growth rate. This potential is driven by both organic category growth and the recapture of market share from struggling private label brands.

U.S. Innerwear Sales Trend

This chart illustrates the potential for Hanesbrands to outpace the U.S. innerwear market:

Conclusion:

The decline of private label underwear presents a significant opportunity for Hanesbrands. By continuing to execute its "Reignite Innerwear" strategy and capitalizing on the shift in consumer preferences, the company is well-positioned to recapture market share and drive revenue growth beyond current projections.

"Fun Fact: Hanesbrands owns the iconic Champion brand, which originated in 1919 as the "Knickerbocker Knitting Company." [Source: Champion - About Us]"